Friday, December 31, 2010

I went out for groceries and came back with this...

What a way to end what has been, for me, a fascinating and restorative year. I began 2010 in the very apartment from which I now write.  Surreal. Did I really return home for 8 months - it doesn't seem possible? There is a certain sense of de ja vu of course however there is one quite obvious difference...  Kyoto saw little snow last winter but I have a feeling, judging by today's dumping, that I shall see a far whiter season this time round.  

After only a mere dusting earlier this year, absolutely no ground cover to speak of, I ran out as soon as I saw the white stuff fluttering by my window so I could snap a few photos on my way to buy groceries - and before it inevitably disappeared - only it didn't. It just kept on coming. Increasingly heavy and a little cold to be frank. The ankles of my jeans crusted over where they had soaked up melted snow and I had to snap chunks of ice off so they wouldn't dissolve into puddles once indoors.  I couldn't feel my toes. 

The taxi driver almost refused to take me to the supermarket because he didn't have snow tyres but we made it part of the way before he gave up and I jumped out and straight into a warm cafe for coffee and panini as breakfast had been forgotten in my hurry to capture a few last flakes. It is still snowing 12 hours later.  On the way home I juggled 3 bags of shopping, my handbag and a camera by wedging an umbrella down the front of my jumper into my cleavage - rather inventive if I do say so myself. It was the only way I could get everything home AND take pics at the same time which was essential because there was no chance in hell I was coming back out for the rest of the day. 

Wishing everyone a magical, peaceful and joyous 2011. Be safe, happy, healthy and loved. 
J xx

I had the Heian Jingu almost to myself for a short time this morning then the tour buses arrived - marking my exit. 

 Below is the canal at the start of the Tetsugaku no michi (philosopher's path) and very close to Ginkakuji (Silver Pavilion) - it it gorgeous any time of year but in the snow.... ooo la la...
 The shots below are a few steps away from my apartment and the shortcut I take to the bus-stop. I love this little street hidden away from the day-trippers...
 A local restaurant displays this New Year floral arrangement at the front door in welcome
Below is where I took refuge for a short time, waiting for the snow to stop.... A good idea in theory.

Thursday, December 30, 2010

MesaEstacion tempura kaiseki - Osaka

 A little warm sake to start? why not...
Appetisers of yuzu tofu, buri sashimi with mustard and sweet miso dressing, deep fried shishamo (smelt) with sudachi lime
 An exotic collection of vegetables are presented to me prior to cooking - Chinese artichokes, Roman cauliflower, green togarashi (chilli/pepper), sweet potato, the little green things are unopened Chinese Day Lily's  - the flower part of the more common yurine (lily bulb), Chajudake (chaju mushrooms), Kohlrabi
Two perfectly fried saimaki ebi (juvenile kurama ebi)
A rather curious offering of smoked salmon, cream cheese, peanuts, daikon and lettuce with sesame dressing. It shouldn't work but it somehow did... not a word of a lie, it cannot be explained...
A Roman cauli tree and mushroom forest....
 Chawan mushi (steamed teacup of savoury custard) with tara shirako (cod sperm) , mitsuba and a divinely smoky amber sauce scented with yuzu. Close up on the spermsac. Tastes better than it sounds - trust me..
The Texas rock salt for the tempura is ground together in this contraption with roasted kuromame (black soy beans) from Tamba in Hyogo prefecture ( note no dipping sauce... in certain tempura establishments, particularly in Kansai,  sauce is considered crass)
It is not a goldfish I promise. It is amago (red spotted masu trout) or 'Spot' for short...
 All the fryin'  love happens behind the silver dome....
 A free lesson in Katsuramuki cutting
 Red rice, excellent pickles of daikon and shiso and clear dashi with baby clams and the refreshing aromatics mitsuba and yuzu zest
If I must.... a palate cleanser of Genmai-cha (green tea flavoured with roasted brown rice) ice cream and yuzu sherbet

There were a few extra tempura dishes in between  - all the veggies from the original plate plus a variety of seafood - needless to say I was completely stuffed.. when they asked me if I would like to order anything more from the tempura menu I nearly choked...